Restaurant Review: Contra

Contra on the LES was recommended by one of the talent I was working on a project with, and I figured it couldn't hurt to check it out. Their website is not very descriptive, so I had to take to the interwebs to find out what the deal was. According to Yelpers, this is one of NYC's hidden gems with a $55 5-course tasting menu that rotated every night. Sounded great to me! So I decided to make a reservation for Jeremy and me along with another couple. 

I had read that the outside was unmarked, so I knew to look closely for it. It only has a small menu in the window and a neon sign in the front when you walked in.

The ambiance is very cool and comforting - not overly pretentious and neither is the staff. It is also quiet as there are only a few tables, seating maybe 20-30 people at a time.

We ended up having to wait a bit for the other couple to arrive, so we sat at the bar and got a drink and some bread to nibble on. My cocktail was made with tequila, fresh pear juice, and black cardamom. It was very light and fresh, but I would have preferred it to be a bit stronger. The bread was a multi-grain beer bread that was warmed in the oven and served with a cocoa-oil butter and it was all delicious. I would go back just to grab a loaf of this chewy, soft bread with a crispy crust.

After being seated, we ordered more drinks and another loaf (for the other couple to try) and were given the run down for the evening and an option to add on a duck course to our meal. We decided against it, mainly because it was made with all kinds of celery and celery root and it's safe to say Jeremy despises all things celery. Here is what we had to look forward to:

First came the beef tartare that was served with potato crisps on top and a few other garnishes, and it says on the menu mussels and mushrooms as well, but honestly I didn't notice those. The beef tartare was prepared well and I actually thought the potato crisps were the best addition, adding a nice textural and salty contrast.

Beef Tartare

Next was the cod served with broccoli raab and spigarello with a wonderful cod emulsion foam over it. The cod was very light, cooked well (maybe could have used just another minute), and had the skin on that was actually not crispy, as I normally see it served, but rather the same texture of the fish. I think it would have been nice to crisp it up a bit and have some contrast. I love broccoli raab, and this was crunchy and fresh, and the spigarello was served as a gremolata. Again, the cod emulsion foam on top really brought everything together and I very much enjoyed this course.

Cod

The third course was the pork, served with sauteed sunchokes, daikon radish, and perhaps a fava bean puree (that was somehow black). The pork had a decent amount of fat on the edges, but it was easily trimmed away. The meat was a little pink looking, but all four of us had the same color pieces so I have to assume that was the intention (right?). It was incredibly tasty and juicy, and went very well with the savory sunchokes that took on the consistency of roasted potatoes. The daikon added a little crunch without overwhelming the flavor. 

Pork

The fourth course was kind of like a pre-dessert freshener, and one of the more "gastro-technical" dishes I have ever had. It was mandarin curd topped with pulverized popcorn, though the mandarin tasted almost flash-frozen (Dippin' Dots-esk) and became creamy once inside your mouth. The salty popcorn, which might have even been kettle corn, was the perfect pair to this sweet creation. I am so curious exactly how this was made. It was the highlight of the meal which is funny since it almost served almost as a palate cleanser.

Mandarin awesomeness

The fifth course was dessert, which was a frozen yogurt served with beet sorbet and hazelnut cream, topped with powdered beet. The yogurt was creamy and not tart, leaving that role for the beet. The hazelnut brought the sweetness and some crunch and everything about this dessert was just perfect - assuming you like beets!

Overall, I enjoyed the meal and thought everything was very well presented. I liked the staff and while some courses took a little while to come, it was a relaxed atmosphere and they definitely were not rushing us. The only thing to note is that while a $55 dollar 5-course menu sounds too good to be true, it sort of is. They charge extra for bread and cheese and of course a lot extra for drinks, so that all adds up quickly and pretty soon your $55 goes up closer to $100. Just something to keep in mind. I would say check it out if you are looking for a nice yet causal place in the LES, but I wouldn't say it's the best deal in NYC as I had previously read.